More Tastes of Scotland

This vessel seems a bit grim...

Although the weather may seem rather uninteresting, this is a subject I report on regularly.  It is certainly worth noting that today is absolutely beautiful: thss Sunday gives us plenty of sunshine and temperatures in the 50s, maybe bordering on the low 60s.  A veritable heatwave.

Anstruther Harbor

This past weekend we visited St Andrews and Anstruther, the latter located in the East Neuk of Fife.  Pictures are forthcoming of our jaunt to St Andrews and the activities of today (including the Edinburgh Zoo), but we have been busy sampling some of Scotland's finest dishes, among them fish and chips.

Something fishy going on here...

No caption needed

Anstruther is the largest of the villages in the East Neuk, and a bus from St Andrews enables you to arrive in this harbor town within thirty minutes.  The main reason we ventured to Anster (as some refer to Anstruther, pronounced AINT-ster) was for its yummy fish and chips.  No, not potato chips; British chips are rather akin to potato wedges (but better).  Thus is was that we ended up at the Anstruther Fish Bar for the best in Scotland and in the UK (well, at least in 2009).  Truly tasty, the fish fillets are lightly battered and very flaky, and the chips are cooked to perfection.  Little grease to speak of here, as none is needed to enhance the flavor.  

The squeal deal

For those who do not like fish, why not sample some barbecue?  You might think that barbecue sandwiches from Virginia and North Carolina are second to none, but we ate at a little establishment in Edinburgh appropriately named "Oink" that just might offer stiff competition.  For a truly gastronomical delight, order the Grunter - which approaches a half of a pound of pork - topped with haggis and chili relish.

Those pesky seagulls...

And if you have room after eating fish and chips or a mound of pork, millionaire shortbread is an excellent choice as a dessert.  With layers of shortbread, caramel and chocolate, this treat lives up to its name in taste (but the price is right).

Sunset in Edinburgh, from the Thistle Golf Course

Dr. Wallace: Booked for "Illegal Presentation"

The law smacked my hand...don't worry, this will not turn into an episode of "Locked Up Abroad."  Unlike in the states (at least here in the city of Edinburgh) rubbish is collected several times per week; in our case, we do not use wheelie bins and roll them out to the curb.  Rather, we place our rubbish in a large garbage bag and leave it outside the entrance to the flat.  Not knowing the rubbish collection schedule, I assumed I could place it outside when I felt moved to do so.  The Environmental Wardens did not like this, and I was hit with an "Illegal Presentation" citation. 


Announcer: "And there's a flag on the field.  Looks like the defensive end tried to give the quarterback a birthday present!  Can you believe that?  During a game of this magnitude.  Let's listen to the ref."


Ref: "Illegal presentation, defense, number 26.  Fifteen yard penalty, and the penalty results in loss of down and no birthday cake."

St Giles Cathedral

All is well.  I will now present in a lawful and legal manner.

The Fiery Mr. Knox

And now for a bit o' history on this fine Edinburgh morning.  Recently, I was asked to find the angels playing bagpipes.  I am pleased to announce that I found two of these!  St Giles Cathedral - located on the Royal Mile - is one of the most recognizable buildings in Edinburgh.  It's spire is in the shape of a crown, modeled after the crowned jewels that reside in the Edinburgh Castle.  Although the outside dates from the 19th century, the magnificent crown was completed in 1495.  The interior is rather old as well, with the four main pillars dating from 1120 and the majority of what one sees a product of the 15th century.  John Knox - the passionate Reformation leader and founder of Scots Presbyterianism - first preached here in 1559. 

Interior of St Giles

Towards the back of the church sits the Thistle Chapel (or Chapel of the Knights of the Thistle).  A fine display of Scottish craftsmanship, this chapel was constructed in 1911.  The Order of the Thistle is largely the creation of James VII & II and membership is usually bestowed upon those who have distinguished themselves in society and are of Scots ancestry.  Decorated with symbols, figures, animals, angels, and musical instruments, the Thistle Chapel is the site of induction into the Order.  

Bagpipes in heaven?

Thistle Chapel

I have discovered that my William & Mary shirt attracts quite a bit of attention.  People see William & Mary and I believe they think I am a monarchist.  This may be what is considered an "illegal presentation."

Made It Ma! Top Of The World!

Karen Carpenter would be proud...

Well, not quite the top of the world, although some might consider Edinburgh to be at the pinnacle of civilization.  Jimmy Cagney made it in White Heat (1949), and we made it in Walter Scott  Monument (2012).  Our reward for climbing 287 steps?  A certificate stating we accomplished the ascent.  


This activity is not for those with bathmophobia (fear of stairs), phasmaculaphobia (fear of spiral staircases), climacophobia (climbing or falling down stairs), claustrophobia (fear of enclosed spaces), acrophobia (fear of heights), or haphephobia (fear of being touched).  Or vertigo.  


The sign above the entrance read "Abandon Hope All Ye Who Enter Here," and we felt that this would be a great family activity (no, there is no sign that says this...).  The initial 175 or so steps are not too bad, with occasional landings which allow people to stretch, regroup, huddle in a corner and cry, run in fear of the disembodied voices that are heard from upper tiers, or contemplate returning to the entrance.  

"Just rolling along, just rolling along"

"Something in the wind has learned my name"

The scene shifts, though, as one tackles the final steps.  As the stairs and the passageway narrow, it becomes evident that it may have been a mistake to attempt this feat with a large camera bag.  As we passed people, we engaged in a form of "Staircase Twister," in which participants contorted their bodies to allow others to duck under, go through, hop over, or brush past.  This made for some very awkward moments, and it was amusing to see the looks of hesitation as each party assessed the situation to determine who would be the "brusher" and who would be the "brushee."  (Note: if you undertake this climb, please use deodorant).

"You don't like my peaches, don't shake my tree"

Eventually we arrived at the top of the rocket-shaped edifice, and I told Melinda that when the world ends this monument is going to blast off and take a lucky few to a land of sheep and haggis.  The views were (and still are, I presume) absolutely astounding, and the effort was worth the result.  On our way to the bottom, we met two women from Texas, carrying multiple shopping bags and looking like rabbits just scared off of a riverbank.  They might still be in the monument....

Late Nite with Mark Leno...

We took some time out of our climbing schedule and toured the Camera Obscura, Latin for "dark room."  Using strategically placed mirrors, this scientific instrument offers a panoramic view of Edinburgh.  One will also find many, many illusions in the building, as we both discovered.

Mama Don't 'Low No Bouzouki Playin' 'Round Here

Last evening, Melinda and I went for a curry.  Or, we had Indian food.  Located just off South Bridge on Infirmary, Mother India is a tapas-style restaurant which allows you to sample several smaller dishes whilst still enjoying a nice selection of foods.  We ordered lamb saag (lamb with spinach), butter chicken with almonds, mixed vegetables, garlic naan (similar to pita bread), and finished off the meal with masala tea which is a delightful blend of Assam tea, milk, cardamom, and other spices.  

Where everybody knows your name...

After dinner, we nipped over to Sandy Bell's for an evening of folk music.  Definitely worth the trip.

The Moothies!

Years ago I played here: it is a cozy place, decorated with newspaper clippings about the pub, Celtic instruments, and pictures of locals playing music.  Known for its whisky selection and folk music, upon entering one immediately feels welcomed.  Our ears convinced us that it was squeeze box (accordion) night, but we quickly discovered that we were hearing the sounds of the Moothie Group.  Indeed, twelve harmonica players (or moothies, a Scots term for someone who plays the mouth harp, pronounced MOO-thee) were gathered and merrily playing their instruments.  Now, if I stumbled upon a dozen banjo pickers playing I would be afraid, very afraid.  As it stands, there were no banjer pickers (yet) and we had a wee listen.  For an hour and a half.  Listen to the moothies here.   

Bouzouki and Squeeze Box: Quite a Combo

Uilleann Pipes

Following the mouthies, a more traditional group played, and their instruments included the fiddle, flute, bouzouki (ba-ZOO-key), tenor banjo, and uilleann (OO-lee-in) or Irish pipes.  Amidst Americans, Germans, Spanish, Scottish, Irish, and English patrons, we thoroughly enjoyed the music.  My father-in-law, Bob, might never leave this place...Click here to sit in on the jam session.

Ever wonder about the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde? His story is based on Deacon Brodie, an upstanding Edinburgh citizen by day and denizen of the dark by night. Brodie's unsavory actions eventually resulted in his hanging in 1788, ironically on gallows he designed. 

Somebody Scotch Me!

My wife - having safely arrived from Danville - has been greeted by some of the worst weather within the past two weeks.  You have not experienced Scottish weather unless you take a raindrop propelled by gale force winds in your ear canal.  With the wind whipping and and the water falling we decided to visit a local outdoor market.  

Stockbridge Market

Stockbridge is an area north of Edinburgh, about a ten minute walk from our flat.  The market held on Sundays was recommended to us by the proprietor of a local candy store, and we were informed that we might buy some of the best local products at this particular affair.  Despite the fact that the wind was rather blustery (one woman almost lost her cupcakes) we ambled amid stalls of fish, soap, shortbread, meat, bread, and a host of other things.

The Easter Bunny must be diversifying... 

One interesting Scottish morsel that we both sampled is known as the Scotch egg.  This is a hard-boiled egg wrapped in sausage and breadcrumbs, all of which is then deep fried.  The version pictured is extra spicy, as it was flavored with Ethiopian herbs.  If visiting Stockbridge next Sunday is not on your itinerary, the Highlander Restaurant in Danville indeed serves up a very tasty Scotch egg. 

No Spam?  I think I see Vienna sausages in the back...

Having tasted the sausage, we headed for a stall which advertised a wide assortment of meats.  Options included rabbit, venison, beef, lamb, and squirrel.  If you look closely, you will notice a sign in the back which reads "Eat A Grey! Save A Red!!"

Squid pro quo

Couples only no skating backwards!

Being in such close proximity to the North Sea, fresh seafood is plentiful.  Salmon, haddock, cod, and scallops were popular choices, but for those desirous of something a bit more adventuresome, skate and squid were available!

Fine selection of cheeses

Frankenstein's muenster?

Just around the corner from the seafood was a cheesemonger.  Brie is one of my favorite cheeses, and a fresh brie made of sheep's milk had just been cut and was oozing onto the wooden cutting board.

Other items were available, including rapeseed oil (mentioned in an earlier post entitled "St Andrews: Nature"), teas, jewelry, lotions, and soaps.  Truly a good time was had by all.  And no one lost their cupcakes.  

Homemade marshmallows

And here is your fun fact for the day: last year 2.2 billion fish fingers (or fish sticks) were sold in the UK.  

Happy Mother's Day mom!  I promise I am working and not just eating Scotch eggs.  Love, Mark

Happy Mother's Day mom.  Send us some sun from the beach, and let me know when you are coming to visit!  Love, Melinda

Animal Heads: Representing Gangsters Since the 1400s

Scottish History is full of fascinating stories and myths.  Indeed, the methods used by warring nations and rival kings to settle disputes are often the stuff of legend, bringing to mind a time when some people really served up their own brand of justice.  Think Scarface has the monopoly on serving up animal heads?  Think again.


The death of James I of Scotland in 1437 left the country in a state of turmoil.  His son, James II, was only six years and thus it fell upon regents - or guardians governing during a minority - to effectively run the kingdom.  Regents often promoted their own agendas and attempted to influence the king so that they might receive special favors when the young monarch came of age. Nicknamed "fiery face" because of a red birthmark on his cheek, the young king fell victim to the ambition and violence of greedy men.  


Two wily plotters - William, Lord Crichton and Alexander Livingston - decided that it was in their best interest (and the king's, of course) to send a warning to the highly influential and powerful Douglas family.  Feeling generous and in a social mood, on 24 November 1440 the two men hosted a dinner party, inviting only William Douglas and his younger brother David, and the king.  A very private affair, obviously.  Not even waiting for appetizers to be served, Crichton and Livingston served up a black bull's head, a symbol of death, to the unsuspecting brothers.  They then held a mock trial and William and David were killed, and this little gathering became know as the "Black Dinner."  Talk about poor service.  


To complete the story, James II was only 29 when he died.  Standing too close to a cannon that exploded, he was engulfed in flames.  Many felt that his death was foretold by the birthmark on his cheek, a fiery symbol of his fate.



Speaking of animals and such, several days ago I was strolling down the Royal Mile and High Street.  The High Street often signifies a primary place of business or commerce, as it contains many stores and shops.  I happened upon two of my close friends, pictured below. 

At least these two are dressed appropriately.  The lion looks slightly miffed that he has to wear this outfit.  But the giraffe looks quite confident, I think.


Cheers for the rest of the weekend! 

Supersize Me...Only In America?

But first, the weather from Britain.  Not my typical report, as this weather forecast is brought to you by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.


And in other news...apparently there is now a debate in Britain concerning spelling errors.  Specifically, should teachers correct more than three grammatical errors?  It seems as if (I do not know the source of this study) more than three corrections in some way damages a child's self-confidence.  I, four won, thinck that coreckting spelling missteaks is a gud idea. 


Compared to Danville, Virginia, Edinburgh is a large city.  Geographically, Edinburgh is twice as large as Danville (100 sq. miles and 40 sq. miles, respectively) yet contains almost thirteen times as many people.  Within the city itself, space is limited; thus, any dwellings are going to be outfitted accordingly.  Having really never lived in the city, urban life is rather foreign to me.  I grew up with cows grazing outside my bedroom windows and beagles barking at the moon, so buses and lorries (trucks) and thousands of people bustling about at times is overwhelming.  Entertainment for me is sitting on the front porch at mom and dad's and looking at the woods.  Real excitement is when a stray dog runs through the yard and we get to check the collar and use the phone box to call the owner.   


But I digress. Ahem.  As I was saying, things may be smaller here in  Britain.  Disclaimer: this is not to say that larger versions of what I am about to discuss do not exist.  I have, indeed, seen them although from my limited exposure these instances are rare.  But, such comparisons do raise questions about the sometimes obsessive need of Americans to supersize everything or buy items in bulk.  

This size is juuuust right!

Coffee Pot: A rather mundane article in the states, in our nice flat we have a coffee press.  You simply spoon the desired amount of coffee into the bottom of the press, add hot water, and press the grounds to the bottom with the plunger (pictured to the right of the press) when the coffee is "ready," this dependent upon how strong you prefer your brew.


Refrigerator:  Slim and compact, you truly only store what you are able to consume, which I think is practical and economical.  No waste here.  I stand approximately twelve inches taller than this model, which puts it at five feet in height.   

Feed me....

Washer/Dryer: And finally the washer/dryer combo.  Quite efficient, although I have learned that it is better to do small loads throughout the week and not amass a pile of clothes.  Trust me on this.  Yesterday I washed six loads of laundry; the radiators prove to be very efficient at drying things.


All a matter of perspective, I assume.