No. 60

To celebrate and honour the Queen's Diamond Jubilee, this will be my final post from Scotland.


I really cannot say more than I have over the past three months.  This has been a wonderful personal and academic experience, and I look forward to continuing my career as a teacher, researcher, and writer.  


A special round of applause is due to Danville Community College, the Virginia Community College System, the Strathmartine Trust, IASH, the University of Edinburgh, and the NLS for support and assistance.  And many thanks to those who read my blog.


In other news, I can announce that Danville Community College is planning a Study Abroad Trip to Scotland for next summer!  More information will be available through a (possible) blog to which I will contribute whilst in the states and DCC's Study Abroad page, located here.


All the best, and here's to continued sunshine in Scotland.


Warm Regards,


Dr. Mark C. Wallace

Best of Edinburgh

Over the past three months, we have sampled may foods, visited many attractions, and climbed numerous hills, mountains and monuments.  As a result, we have compiled a list of our favourites; the categories are a bit fluid, but nevertheless if you visit Edinburgh and have just a handful of days this list should help you find your way.

Best Sites & Historical Attractions (with a fee):

Castle through the Olympic Rings

1) Edinburgh Castle
2) HMS Britannia
3) City of the Dead Tour
4) Gladstone's Land
5) Holyrood Palace
6) Georgian House

Best Sites and Attractions
(without a fee):
1) St Giles Cathedral, including
the Thistle Chapel (photography fees apply)

St Giles in the morning

2) Greyfriars Kirk
3) National Museum
4) Scottish Parliament
5) Writer's Museum

At this juncture I should say that there are many, many museums in Scotland including wonderful art galleries.  The National Gallery, Royal Scottish Academy, and Portrait Gallery are just three of the numerous museums available: take advantage of these.

Best Walks, Hikes & Climbs (fees may apply for monuments):

1) Calton Hill

2) Nelson Monument

3) Walter Scott Monument

4) Arthur's Seat

5) Royal Mile
6) Rose Street

Scottish Parliament...it's 'organic'

Best Restaurants:

1) Mother India (Indian)

2) Sweet Melinda's (Scottish/Seafood)

3) Dusit (Thai)

4) Passorn (Thai)

5) Angels With Bagpipes (Scottish)

6) Indaba (Spanish/South American

7) Cafe Royal (Scottish/Seafood)
8)Henderson's (Vegetarian)

Best Soups, Sandwiches & Pies:

1) Union of Genius (Soups)

2) Mum's Great Comfort Food

3) Bobby's Sandwich Bar

4) The Piemaker

5) Oink
6) Valvona & Crolla

Best Sweets & Treats (Local and recommended food):

1) Ottavio (Ice Cream)

2) The Dome (Sticky Toffee Pudding)

3) Elephant House (Tiffin & Millionaire Shortbread!)

4) Whiski Bar (Cranachan)

5) La Petit Paris (Chocolate Mousse/Crepes)

6) Bibi's (Cupcakes...yum)

7) Mr. Whippy (Ice Cream, and he is normally near Rose Street)

8) Cafe Truva (Turkish Coffee and Turkish Delight)

9) Lickety Splits (Candy Shoppe)

10) Dirty Dick's (Banoffee Pie)

Pubs with Atmosphere:

1) Bow Bar (Medicinal Selection, or so I'm told)

2) Jolly Judge (Very conspiratorial)

3) Doctors Pub

4) Deacon Broadie's

5) Frankenstein's

6) Brew Dog

7) Cafe Royal

8) Dirty Dick's

9) Conan Doyle

The majority of my time was spent working away, researching, writing, and reading.  However, we did engage with some non-historical sites and events, and here are our best picks.

Guilty Pleasures:

1) The Edinburgh Dungeon (Haunted Tour)

2) The Stand Comedy Club

And in case you need some tips on how to clean those pesky fourth floor windows, why not try the Edinburgh Extension Pole?

Anchors Aweigh!

Tintinnabulation of the bells!

It took many weeks, but I finally mustered up the courage to board another vessel and head to sea.  Well, technically the HMS Britannia did not set sail, but after my experience on the May Princess I was a bit nervous.  And it did not help that my in-laws and my wife kept convincing me that we were indeed moving.  

Launched in 1954, the Britannia - roughly 425 feet long - can run a maximum of 22.5 knots, and her range is 2500 miles at 18 knots burning diesel.  With additional tanks, she holds 450 gallons of fuel.  After the Britannia made her final voyage to Hong Kong in 1997, she ultimately logged over 1 million nautical miles.  


In Britain, a term bandied about is 'posh'.  Posh essentially means elegant, although in some circles it might be used to describe a snob.  At any rate, I was told that the term ultimately derives from the need of upper class ship passengers to sit port-side out, starboard home (Port Out Starboard Home), or POSH.  And there is your interesting tidbit for the day.  

And so it is that we enter our final weekend in Scotland.  The past three months have been brilliant, and - despite what you may hear - the weather has been...smooth.  The sunshine has appeared for the past three days, and we have espied two rainbows within the past three weeks.  Which, of course, means 6 more weeks of this posh summer...

What Lies Beneath

The legend of the Loch Ness Monster, or Nessie, has captured the imaginations of many.  According to some accounts of the monster, it originated with the Picts, those distinctly painted peoples of the Highlands.  Standing stones depicted (no pun intended) a large beast with flippers, and thus the legend of a monster was born.  In 1933, the myth soared after a new road was opened by the Loch and a 'sighting' was reported.

If you look closely, you can see the monster...

Several interesting legends exist regarding water beasties.  One involves St Columba, the holy figure responsible for introducing Christianity to Scotland in AD 565.  It is written that upon seeing a large aquatic animal about to devour a poor man, he commanded the beast to return to the watery depths of Loch Ness.  Another story tells of a monstrous horse that lives in lakes and streams.  By promising small children rides on its back, the children gladly accept, only to find that their hands stick to the horse.  The beast then drags them to their death, and the next morning the children's livers wash ashore.  (Tell this story to prevent children from ever wanting a pony or a swimming pool).

View of Urquhart Castle from Loch Ness

Loch Ness is the largest body of water in Britain.  It is over 22 miles long and one mile wide, and it extends to a murky depth of 754 feet.  And Loch Ness never freezes, although some say this is because of Nessie's hot breath.  If you are wanting more information on Nessie sightings and current updates about her, please click here.

'You're a real tough cookie with the long history...'

While visiting the ruins of Urquhart Castle, I snapped a photo of a trebuchet: a  Medieval siege engine.  Oddly, it seems as if numerous pumpkin patches in the states employ this destructive machine for usage in 'Punkin' Chunkin' contests.  However, it had a much more sinister purpose than simply hurling large orange melons into abandoned fields.  The trebuchet could destroy castles, fortresses, and cities by launching large stones and boulders, among other things.  Well, that's ok.  Let's see how you do it.  Put up your dukes, let's get down to it.  Hit me with your best shot!


Well, even if you're knocked down, it's all in vain.  Because I'll get right back on my feet again (my sister, Kay Adams, will be impressed with my knowledge of this Pat Benatar song.  Kay actually performed with Pat...) and visit Cawdor Castle.  If you happen through Inverness, do stop by this castle, as it is still lived in a retains a certain charm. 


The sun shines today in Edinburgh.  Cheers for a great Thursday!

Cawdor Castle gardens

The Art of Random

Really?  No notice?  I'm just being sold?

Over the past several months, we have witnessed some rather random sights and sounds.  From food, to the World's Most Pierced Woman, to pitbulls roaming the streets gnawing on planks of wood, Scotland provided us with some memorable moments.

I'm expanding my business...

I now understand what it means to be a tourist.  It never occurred to me how noticeable this species is - the Hominidae touristata - until I observed this creature in its natural habitat.  It exhibits strange characteristics of folding and unfolding paper, glancing at it, turning it circles (like other animals), avoiding eye contact with other members of its species, and finally throwing away the paper and dashing hurriedly after moving vehicles.  The tourist also becomes angry very easily and is suspicious of those who speak in different sounds or tones.  Damp weather causes the tourist to become depressed, disoriented, and inclined to seek food and, well, alcohol, although upon being fed and watered the once-suspicious tourist is inclined to become more social.  It announces itself by presenting multi-colored clothing (t-shirts which read: 'Edinburgh is For Winners'!) and showing others that yes, indeed, you can wear four different tartans and be both attractive and multicultural.

According to science, this is me
as a monkey...

In Edinburgh, there are no cats.  Only white ones which seem to be afraid of Spanish accents.  There are plenty of rabid seagulls, and the box full of puppies and a ferret did, in fact, surprise even yours truly.  But people seem to pay no mind to these sights, and after some time you indeed forget to dodge the missile of a pigeon flying straight for your head.  They usually hit the brakes and you fly right by.

Who is that in the background...?  I
look like I am about to perform
a move from Karate Kid

In another episode of the Art of Random, Melinda and I ate at a wonderful Thai restaurant....while listening to the smooth vocals of Dean Martin and Nat King Cole.  To me, this would be like going to a Mexican restaurant in Danville and hearing the Bee Gees piped through the speakers.  


And let us not forget the people.  I have crossed paths with people whom I have not seen for almost 6 years, and I am still attempting to figure out if some of these sightings are coincidence or fate.  In St Andrews, perhaps it is not surprising as it is much smaller than Edinburgh; indeed, I saw five people I knew in one day.  However, to speak of your former landlord in the morning and then randomly spy him at a jazz concert in Edinburgh featuring the works of Leon Bismark 'Bix' Biederbecke, and then have him tell me that he and his wife were just discussing my banjo playing...please ponder.



Perhaps my favourite character in this wonderful, magical place called Edinburgh is Michael Jackson.  Yes, an odd beginning to a story, but for over two months Melinda and I occasionally glimpsed this elusive figure: he would walk quickly past us, spin, tilt his hat, and then disappear into the brewery-tinged air.  Finally, after a three week hiatus, he reappeared.  And we were ready.

Who's Bad?

We picked up these two near a pub

Ah, Scotland.  And last night, Melinda was pegged with a half-eaten candy bar that seemingly appeared out of the not-so-dark night.  Not to worry...the coconut and chocolate did not harm her.  

In my final days I am working on my powers of prophecy and telekinesis.  Which is good, because according to my good friend Jubilant Johnny, Scotland proudly boasts the largest grouping of registered Jedi Knights in the world, according to a recent census....the whisky must have medicinal properties....

'Stay and help you I will'!

And so it is.  

(Said in Yoda voice) Education leads to knowledge....knowledge leads to Edinburgh...Edinburgh leads to sunshine 

(I am the eternal optimist) 

Isle of Skye Part III

Old Man of Storr

For those who love to walk and hike, Skye is the place for you.  Driving will only get you so far.  Quite literally.  (The great thing about driving on Skye is that if you miss your turn, just keep going...you eventually will return to the same point by just going forward).  


About 7 miles outside of town stands the Old Man of Storr.  Deriving it's name from Old Norse for 'Great Man', the protrusions seemingly form the outline of a sleeping man.  The hiking trails are beautiful, if not a bit strenuous.  

View near the Old Man of Storr

But this is no country for old men.  Rather, it is a place for young men who like to dress like women and hide in caves.  Yes, I speak of the Young Pretender, or Bonnie Prince Charlie.  

Grave of Flora MacDonald

The intrepid Jacobite heroine Flora MacDonald helped the Young Pretender escape from Uist to Skye.  Following the disastrous battle of Culloden in 1746, Bonnie Prince Charlie evaded capture by the English, and was assisted by MacDonald.  Disguised as her maid, Betty Burke, MacDonald and Prince Charlie rowed to the Isle of Skye (a journey which took over 15 hours).  Ultimately, the Prince escaped to France; MacDonald, however, was imprisoned for a brief time.  She was released and settled in North Carolina, although she eventually returned to her native Scotland.  


No trip to Scotland would be complete without a tour of Skye's only distillery: Talisker.  Although the process of making spirits is quite intricate, I can tell you that the vats used for the overall fermentation and stirring processes (how technical...anyone aficionados reading this please forgive me) are mostly made from Oregon Pine, and the majority of the casks used for storage are American white oak.  My favourite story pertaining to whisky, though, is the bit about the 'Angel's Share'.  A quite charming term, it refers to the amount of alcohol lost to natural evaporation during the aging process.  Scotland has a lot of very...happy Seraphim.


And so we enter our final week here in Scotland.  It has been quite an eventful and productive trip, and we look forward to returning.  So, here's to the last seven days!

Skipping stones on Claigain Coral Beach

View of Coral Beach near Dunvegan Castle

Isle of Skye Part II

Portree Harbour

The Isle of Skye, or Misty Isle (Eilean a' Cheo in Gaelic), is the largest of what are collectively known as the Inner Hebrides.  And that's GAH-lic, not GAY-lic.  Here in Skye, the McLeods and the MacDonalds were the dominant clans.  Unfortunately, after the Highland Clearances in the eighteenth century - during which many people were evicted to make way for sheep - the population of Skye fell tremendously.  Looking for a job?  Then you might consider farming, fishing, or making whisky.  If urban life appeals to you, try your luck in Portree, the largest...city, with a population of approximately 2500. 

Crofter's cottage with a thatched roof

If you like farming...Crofting was once a method by which people worked the land and subsisted.  A small plot of land normally owned by a landlord, was worked by a crofter, who paid a fee to his landlord.  Sheep and cattle are usually raised on the crofts as the soil is often poor and unsuitable for crops.  

Turnip Cutter

Apparently, this has been an unusual summer even for the inhabitants of Skye.  With three months of sunshine, rainfall amounts have been down.  This, in turn, effects agriculture and the amount of whisky that is produced.  Apparently, Central Scotland found the rain lost by Skye.

Driving on Skye was very interesting.  Aside from the fact that I needed to drive on the left side of the road, single-track roads - initially at least - are somewhat daunting.  Once I was made to back up on one of these roads, but fortunately the toaster I was driving handled the road and the threat of the precipice rather well (it was a sensitive little Vauxhall...).  Or as my dad would say: 'It's rental'.  

'Ewe are my sunshine, my only sunshine'

In yesterday's entry, I mentioned sheep and Highland cattle.  Indeed, there are many sheep on Skye, in all shapes, sizes, and colors.  It is true, though: if sheep get wet, they shrink...What?  Ewe don't like sheep jokes?  They are very docile creatures, and seemed to take little notice of oncoming vehicles.  And if you like lamb and are unable to visit Scotland, a sheep stew is held annually in Dundas, Virginia.  No, it doesn't taste like a wool sweater.

And this woolly thing is a Highland Cow, or a Hairy Coo.  He followed us all around Skye, and currently is awaiting a approval by Customs so that we might bring him back to Danville.  


More tomorrow from Skye!

Kilt Rock