You Can Call Me Pictland, or Caledonia, or Scotland

Scotland and its association with the city of Edinburgh are relatively "new developments."  Meaning, this country has surely undergone power shifts that inevitably altered its organization, structure, and name.  


It is quite clear that the Romans maintained a noticeable presence for years, and I have argued in another post that the Picts were so named because of Roman observations and writings.  More than likely, Roman influence allowed for more tightly-knit tribal unions that ultimately resulted in the expulsion of non-native peoples.  

Hmmm....a bit of a climb

The Picts - aka Caledonii - dominated throughout the Dark Ages, fiercely protecting their lands.  Although evidence suggests that for a time, at least, the Romans and Caledonii co-existed peacefully, they ultimately fought heated battles with one another and other groups,including the Angles - or the English.  As early as the mid-seventh century (takes you back a bit, no?) the Angles controlled massive amounts of territory in modern Scotland, including the south-east up to the Firth of Forth, and the small settlement then known as Dunedin, or Din Eidyn.  You might know this place by its other name: Edinburgh.  Din Eidyn is a Celtic term meaning "the hill fort of the sloping ridge."


A modern argument has emerged from this fact.  Does Scotland have its own language or heritage, or are these simply borrowed from other peoples?  Let me explain a bit further...For example, English, French, and German - as David Allan writes - denote people and language.  But Scots, although widely spoken, was called "Inglis" before 1500 and is a product of Anglo-Saxon influence.  And the Scots themselves, for whom the modern nation is named, hail from (possibly) the west Highlands and spoke a form of Gaelic.  Who are the Scots?  What is their language?  The wonders of history.  

Wheel...Of...Pistols!  

Regardless, the history is long and deep.  And certainly the castle looms large within this sometimes obscure, sometimes clear, history.  Home to kings and queens, hotly contested, site of murder and intrigue, births and deaths, and now a tourist destination (go early and when it rains...the lines are much shorter) a certain intimidation and ancient presence still emanate from the structure.   


There is a story that has been passed down through Scottish generations that I happened to overhear one evening whilst in a cozy pub.  James II (whom you will recall was born with a fiery mark on his face...some called him Scarface), having just received the rather large cannon Mons Meg as a gift, came under attack from the Scottish equivalent of the mob.  Apparently he owed someone money (this point is unclear, although everything else is true), and unsure what to do, he barricaded himself in his chambers - with Mons Meg.  As the Scottish mobsters stormed the castle, he burst open the doors to his room and yelled out in his best Al Pacino impression:

"Say hello, to my little friend!"

 

    

Scotland: One-Month Retrospective

I have been in Scotland one month, and I must say that the past four weeks have been quite eventful, and rewarding, educational.  My wife and I were having a "spirited discussion" in a pub named the Conan Doyle, regarding what it is about Scotland that makes is so alluring.  As I have striven to illustrate in my numerous posts, the comparatively small country possesses an immeasurable depth (as my wife astutely noted), the deepest point accessible only to those willing to move past those aspects which certainly are interesting but lack longevity.  Indeed, shops are nice, the sightseeing buses are helpful, and pub food is a necessity, but man cannot live on shortbread alone.  

St Andrews Pier

I will freely admit that as an American I offer an outsider's perspective.  Certainly, it fails to fully capture the sometimes happy, sometimes sordid, sometimes melancholy, sometimes disillusioned, but always determined history of a nation held together by myths, legends, and the need to distinguish itself by what it is not.  

Robert The Bruce

People stubbornly cling to nationalistic notions about Union with England (affected in 1707), sometimes deriding the merger as willful subordination of customs and ideologies.  Perhaps this rhetoric is only for the American tourists, who are perceived as holding long-lasting grudges over English taxes and the forced consumption of tea (and someone inevitably yells, "We showed them!" in a display of democratic etiquette).  Politics are discussed regularly, and politicians are lambasted and ridiculed for mistakes; other than the constant "Where are you from?" people consistently ask us "Will Obama win?"


Amongst the Hollister shirts, cans of Coke, piles of Snickers, and unfortunate bottles of Budweiser; through the din of Motown, Sheryl Crow, renditions of "Hey Jude" and "Yesterday;" and between sips of beverages from Starbucks, younger people pass mutely; older folks readily engage us in conversation, keen on discussing country music and how many times they have visited Virginia.  

St Andrews, from St Rule's Tower

This gulf between generations is Scotland, as visible and sharp as the aesthetic differences between old and new town.  Victorian and Georgian houses compete with volcanic outcroppings for primacy, and they serve as subtle reminders of times past when stone and mortar determined borders and often were the only separation between protection and the End of the World.  People worry, they smile, they ask questions about you while offering little information about themselves, and advice is freely and cheerfully given on the differences between the many whiskys distilled in Scotland.


To many, Scotland is rain, tartan, sheep, and fiddles.  And often - and rather unfortunately - people form opinions about this small nation based on one day of exposure.  One day counted among thousands of years of history, and these years are often recounted with confusion, as many people often disagree on the finer details.  Greyfriar's Bobby?  Ask three different people and you may receive four different answers.   

Wallace Crown and
crescent moon

An undercurrent of nostalgia and wistfulness runs through everything, and erratically drifts through the cities and towns much like the smoke from the cigarettes smoked by so many.  Over a pint of lager and above the strains of a fiddle, someone tells a story about William Wallace and then congratulates the Queen on the eve of the Diamond Jubilee.  Is this Scotland, protective of its heritage and character, academically distinguished, defined by contradictions, biting wit, hopeful pessimism, and lingering dissatisfaction with the weather?  As I have been told, in Scotland umbrellas are for Americans; perhaps Scots would rather do battle with nature and claim victory than submit to the elements...

I Fought the Law...and the Law Won

Maybe they found out about
the Wallace sword story...

Day two in Stirling was just as eventful as the first.  My illegal presentation caught up with me, though, and I was booked at the Old Town Gaol.  Conditions were rather bad: one of the punishments was picking oakum, essentially picking apart the individual fibers of tar-covered ropes.  If you prefer something else, how about turning a crank over 10,000 per day?  Justice is served!

I suppose he isn't the "Right Guard" for this...

Melinda was incarcerated as well - her crimes were never listed, although in this particular picture she looks skeptical of the entire ordeal.
Actually my crime was telling a bad joke: I told this gentlemen that I had some frozen holy water and would be glad to sell him a "pope-sicle."

Living Quarters (right) and the Great Hall (left)

Moving right along.  Under James V, construction of Stirling Castle - parts of which are newly refurbished - began in 1538.  It was intended to be a residence fit for the king and his queen, Mary  of Guise.  Alas, he died in 1542 and more than likely never saw the completion of the castle.  The Great Hall is a light hue of honey, a coating appropriately named "King's Gold."  It is quite probable that at one time the entire castle was this color and would have been quite impressive to the eyes of visitors.  Inside the Great Hall, an astounding room greets the entrant, and the ceiling is reminiscent of a ship.        

Yarrr....me ship listed badly
when me took this picture

An extensive project was undertaken to restore the royal apartments.  Notably, the "Stirling Heads" were recreated and painted.  Once situated high above the floor, the wooden heads - carved from Polish oak - depicted the royal family, Roman emperors, high-ranking officials and symbols of the king's wealth and power.  Oh - the paint contained arsenic.  The weight of the heads was so great, however, that during the eighteenth century the ceiling collapsed.


One of the perks of working in Edinburgh is the company car.  This is not the color I would have necessarily chosen, but I suppose it will do.  

No match for my Prius in a drag race...

Scots Wha' Hae!

The Wallace Monument

Scots wha' hae, wi' Wallace bled,

Scots, wham Bruce has aften led,

Welcome to your gory bed,

Or to victorie!

Composed by Robert Burns in 1793, the patriotric Scots Wha' Hae for many years served as Scotland's national anthem, and is written in the style of a speech given by King Robert the Bruce before the Battle of Bannockburn.

The Wallace Monument in Stirling commemorates the life and achievements of Sir William Wallace.  Completed in 1869, it stands proudly on Abbey Craig, historically accepted as the site from which Wallace led the Scots into battle against the English at the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297.  It took three attempts over fifteen years, but I finally had a clear view from The Crown.   

View of Stirling from The Crown

Stirling Bridge, though, was arguably Wallace's greatest achievement.  Beset by frustration and lack of support, he was eventually arrested for treason and executed.  This was graphically depicted in a movie, although I cannot remember the title....ask Mel Gibson.

Bannockburn 

Not far from the monument is  Bannockburn, the still-revered site where the battle of the same name occurred on 24 June 1314.  Here, King Robert the Bruce and an army of Scots defeated Edward II and the English army.  A pastoral setting, the field now is covered with daisies and buttercups, and cattle graze in the distance.  It belies the history of the site, though, as thousands lost their lives in a bitter and bloody struggle.  The Bruce unleashed the famed and feared Highland Charge: a sea of screaming men, weapons drawn, running with calculated, reckless abandonment and ultimately crashing into the stunned English army.

Wallace's Sword?

Is this the sword of William Wallace?  Legend has it that due to the size and weight of this weapon (which is, of course, the Wallace sword) Wallace would have been at least 6'6" in height, certainly a towering presence, one might even say monumental...The wonderful thing about Scottish history is that so much of it is indeed based upon myth and legend, often giving way to historical truths.  Some things, though, are accepted as fact.  My grandfather helped build the Wallace Monument, and the sword pictured was constructed in Kenbridge, Virginia, by my great-grandfather.  How did the sword arrive in Scotland?  After the sword was completed, my grandfather swam to Scotland and personally delivered it to Sir William.  Some books omit these bits of information.... 

Panoramic Heaven

The starting point...

The weather being wonderful, yesterday appeared to be the ideal day to climb Arthur's Seat.  Traditionally, it is asserted that Edinburgh was built upon seven hills - Castle Hill and Arthur's Seat counted as two of them.  

Castle Hill

Arthur's Seat is situated 824 feet above sea level and is home to the ruins of St Anthony's Chapel, built in the 12th century by King David, the son of Malcolm Canmore and St Margaret.  This chapel commemorates David's escape from death: it is told that during a hunting trip, the young king encountered a white stag, a symbol of enchantment and magic.  The creature frightened David's horse, and the king was subsequently thrown to the ground.  As the stag was about to gore him, David purportedly glimpsed a shimmering cross between its antlers.  Taking courage from the vision, he slew the stag.  Following the confrontation, David had a dream in which he was instructed to build an abbey on the site where he saw the cross.  Obeying the instructions, he erected the abbey and named it Holyrood (or Holy Cross) Abbey.  Arthur's Seat is located in Holyrood Park. (King David also oversaw the construction of St Giles Cathedral, St Giles being the patron saint of lepers and beggars).

The ending point...

According to numerous guidebooks, there are several paths which one might walk to reach the top.  For future reference, as you approach the fork in the road  - and if you fancy a more relaxed climb - bear left.  We took the more strenuous route; roughly one hour and thirty minutes later we reached our destination.  If you look closely at the picture taken from the summit, you are able to trace the Royal Mile: the castle is located towards the upper right, and Holyrood Palace is in the lower-left corner.

St Margaret's Chapel

Since I mentioned David's mother, it is worth noting that Margaret was canonized, becoming Scotland's only royal saint.  Her piety and devotion are duly noted, and St Margaret's Chapel at Edinburgh Castle is a constant reminder of her religious devotion.


More climbing in store for the weekend, as we journey to Stirling to climb the Wallace Monument.  All the best for your weekend.  Cheers!

Freemasons and The Beast of East Fife

Intriguing, no?


My PhD focused on eighteenth-century Scottish clubs and societies, with particular emphasis on the freemasons.  Should anyone like to peruse a 300-page tome for a bit of easy, Friday reading, please feel free to do so by clicking here.

St Andrews Lodge No. 25

I'm often asked if the freemasons possess secret knowledge, forbidden powers that allow one to predict the future, control the financial markets or determine the outcome of the World Series.  If that were the case, the Philadelphia Phillies would never lose.  However, the masons are shrouded in myth and it is difficult to assess their activities during the eighteenth century, as minutes are tantalizingly vague and allude to interesting events, rituals and ceremonies but never completely divulge verifiable truths.  As the Scottish courts would say, "Not Proven."

Exterior of Rosslyn Chapel

To be sure, freemasonry has a long and storied past, one which is guarded and protected.  Controversy surrounds the origins of British freemasonry, although historians such as David Stevenson have offered conclusive evidence linking the emergence of modern freemasonry to early Scottish craft guilds.  It is clearly evident, though, that stonemasons have plied their trade for centuries; Rosslyn Chapel, for example, is a testament to high levels of artisanal achievement.  


Secrets and conspiracy theories are not solely confined to the freemasons, however.  Last night, I became privy to highly classified information regarding The Beast of Cupar (or The Big Cat of Fife). Yes, this rather elusive creature has (still is, possibly?) terrorized Fife, savaging sheep, mauling drunken revelers, attacking domestic pets and unleashing a crime wave including bank robberies, graffiti, and illegal presentation of garbage.  A simple Google search for the Big Cat of Fife will return numerous reports of beast sightings, but this website offers proof that The Beast of East Fife exists....

Beware the vicious beast!

Poopy Wallace...nice tartan

What We've Got Here is a Failure to Communicate

I may need Cool Hand Luke to translate; but he might eat all of my scotch eggs.


After a day at the library, during which I read about the Lowland Clearances, Scottish agronomy and the differences between upper and lower classes, my mind becomes relatively disengaged.  Thus, engaging with society takes some effort; I need a bit of time before I am able to think and speak coherently.


Three times (twice yesterday) I have not understood what has been asked of me, and instead of responding with a polite "can I get a repeat on that?" I answer to what I think I have just heard.  Either that or just smile and say the word "yes" over and over.  This tactic worked well in Italy.


Below, you will read what was asked, what I heard, and how I responded.  I will say that my responses elicited strange looks.  And I would just smile and say yes over and over....


Waiter: "Was everything ok?"
What I heard: "Would you like some cake?"
My Answer: "Yes please."


Grocery store clerk: "Where are you from?"
What I heard: "Would your like your receipt in the bag?"
My Answer: "In the bag."


Grocery store clerk: "Do you like our city?"
What I heard: "Would you like free bread?"
My response: "No, not really."

Mons Meg

Fortunately my wife translated, and I blame it all on mental fatigue.  No, I am not from the bag and I do like Edinburgh, although now everyone who works at Sainsbury's thinks I hate the city.




Speaking of cannons, Mons Meg - arguably one of the world's oldest cannons - now rests contentedly on the grounds of Edinburgh Castle.  A gift to James II in 1457, this Belgium-made weapon represented the pinnacle of fifteenth-century military technology.  At a little over 7 tons and 15 feet in length, Mons was a beast; the weight, though, prevented movement of more than three miles per day.

The cannon used 510mm (roughly 20 inches) calibre cannon balls which each weighed 400 pounds; after being fired to celebrate the marriage of Mary Queen of Scots to the French Dauphin in 1558, one of the cannon balls was discovered over two miles from the castle.  A distinct drawback of the bombard - aside from its sheer size and massive weight - is that as it generated so much heat and stress after firing one round it could only be fired eight times over the course of one day.       

Fire in the hole!

 



  

You Say You Want a Reformation

This was a little-known Beatles song from the 1960s...


The sun is out, and I believe it will come out tomorrow.  Bet your bottom dollar.  And while the sun is out in all of its glory:

I am in the library, studiously working and contemplating the meaning of life...

Mark Knox, I presume?

while Melinda is making new friends.

6925 piercings, and counting...

Meet Elaine Davidson, the World's Most Pierced Woman.  Very nice lady - certainly a colorful disposition and magnetic personality...

I mentioned that we were in St Andrews this past weekend.  Surely, this historic town merits more than just one (or two, possibly even three) posts.  St Andrews Castle - though largely ruined - is impressive in its minimal state.  Overlooking the North Sea, it is quite obvious that its geographic situation enabled the fortification to be easily defended.  A viable fortress by 1100, this castle became the home to ecclesiastical leaders by the beginning of the thirteenth century.  Over the next several hundred years, St Andrews Castle was besieged, destroyed, and rebuilt; during these tumultuous times, it was also the site of numerous grisly scenes.  Most notable were the burning of Protestant preacher George Wishart and the mutilation of Cardinal Beaton and the rather unceremonious exhibition of his body from the castle walls. 

Interior view of the castle

It is rather interesting to consider the scope and magnitude of Scottish history, especially the religious aspects.  The picture of me studying was taken in the John Knox House, and Knox was certainly the leading figure of the Scottish Reformation.  Religious controversy ripped apart nations, peoples, and regimes, and altered the trajectory of national ideologies.  History does not repeat itself, but occasionally it does rhyme...    

Room with a view

Just A Walk In The Park

Actually, Maverick would prefer "Just a walk in the park, Kazansky."  For those fans of Top Gun, that quote is just for you.


Melinda and I have taken two underground tours of Edinburgh.  Much has been made of the appropriately named underground cities, although we have discovered that there is some debate over the origin of these subterranean layers.  Some say that the areas were constructed after parts of Edinburgh were erected, others contend the city was built over existing areas, and still some parties claim that shipping magnates eventually enclosed sections of the cities as bridges were built, aided by buildings (some as high as fourteen stories!) that encroached upon houses and closes and wynds, all  of which eventually caused the entombment of citizens.  

Lounging on the Nor' Loch

Regardless of what one believes, it is evident that an underground population did exist.  It is also evident that sanitation removal was very crude and rudimentary.  As we walked through Mary King's Close, our guide mentioned that sometimes as many as twelve or thirteen people might live in very cramped quarters, and the only available toilet - or loo - was a single pot.  (If you are from Kenbridge, Virginia, this is known as a "slop jar").  Flushing toilets - or "Thunder Boxes" - were very rare.  Twice daily, the pot was emptied out of the window.  Bear in mind that Edinburgh is a very hilly city; thus, this excrement would flow towards....a central point.


Ever wonder why Princes Street Gardens are so green?  If you look closely at the picture posted above, you will notice the steep incline towards the city in the background.  Indeed, it is from this bustling metropolis (roughly 30,000 people in an area no bigger than one square mile) that the waste of many flowed from the High Street to the Nor' Loch (or Lake), aka Princes Street Gardens.  This area was flooded in the 15th century to help protect the city, and initially would have been pristine; human filth - along with bodies of plague victims and executed criminals - certainly tainted the water.  And yes, the Nor Loch was the source of drinking water for many: cholera and typhoid were common.    



Further down High Street (or the Royal Mile), there are many things to see.  Fancy some fudge?  I passed by this little shop not too long ago, and the treats looked yummy.  If you have not already gathered this vital bit of information, there is plenty to munch upon in this country.  So, have a bit of fudge and lounge in Princes Street Gardens - human bones only surface after prolonged rainy spells.  And of course Scotland is always sunny...

Flowers in Princes Street Gardens...good mulch

Where The Wild Things Are

In Danville, Virginia?  


Just to reassure everyone, I legally presented my rubbish this morning and no citations were written.  

Squirrel Monkey

This week is shaping up to be wonderful - we may see 70s by Thursday.  As I will be in the library most of the week (editing my 27 pages of notes, reading secondary sources and starting two articles) I will have to enjoy the day after 4:00pm.  However, as it does not get dark until 10:30pm and it gets light at 4:30am, I have plenty of daylight.

Red River Hog

Nathan?

Giant Panda

Yesterday, Melinda and I visited the Edinburgh Zoo.  Quite an array of animals, and most were out and about.  I have posted an assortment of pictures for your viewing pleasure - I am especially fond of the big cats.  My friend Jerry Steinberg (best bass player this side of Danville) will enjoy them as well!

Tapir

Sleepy Leopard

Enthusiastic Koala

River Otter

Contemplative Leopard